Monday, May 21, 2012

Fashion through the years: 1910's

This is the 4th post of the May edition of Random Magazine

Hello :)
Today I will take you back to the past and tell you about the fashion of the 1910's.

Introduction

World War 1 made many changes, and one of those changes was fashion. 1910's fashion was much more practical than the years before it. The oh-so-famous corsets weren't worn as much, skirts rose from floor-length to well above the ankle, and men's trousers were worn cuffed to ankle-length and creased. The 1910's fashion was also characterized by rich, oriental, and exotic opulence.

Some of the Influential Fashion Designers of the time

  1. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
  2. Bree Bolin
  3. Paul Poiret
  4. Jacques Doucet
  5. Mariano Fortuny
  6. Georges Doeuillet
  7. Madeleine Cheruit
  8. Jeanne Paquin
  9. John Redfern
  10. Charles Worth

Woman's wear

Because of the war, more and more women were forced to work, so they wore clothes more practical and better suited for these activities.

Tunics and hobble skirts

The most popular silhouette of the decade was a long underskirt under a tunic. Early in the decade, the waist-lines were very high (just below the bust), echoing the styles of the early 19th century and full tunics were worn over narrow, draped skirts. But by 1914, skirts were very narrow at the ankle, but widest at the hips. The waistlines were softly defined and loose, and by the mid-decade, dropped near the natural waist, where they remained during the war. By 1916, they were wearing calf-length dresses over an ankle-length underskirt. When fashion houses re-opened in 1919, they showed lowered and even more undefined waist.

Suits and coats

A tailored suite of matching jacket and skirt , or Tailleur, was worn for travel and in the city. The fashionable women wore matching cuffs, striking hats, and fur scarves with their Tailluer. Like the lines of tunics, jackets followed the raised and lightly defined waists. Most coats were kimono shaped, but fur coats were also very popular.

World War 1

Darker colors and simpler cuts became the norm during the need to mourn the dead and visit the wounded. A new monochrome look emerged although unfamiliar to young women in comfortable circumstances. Women dropped the tunic-and-skirt ensemble, shortening skirts and simplifying dresses. Full skirts with hemlines above the ankle were called "war crinoline" by the fashion press, promoting the "practical" and "patriotic" style. Also, women were dressing less extravagant due to funds being put to war effort.

Footwear

Shoes had slightly curved, high heels. Stockings were put emphasis on by short skirts, and gaiters were worn in the winter. Shoes with criss-crossing straps at the ankles, also called Tango shoes, peeked out from wrapped and draped evening skirts. During the war years, women wore lower wedge heels and sensible laced shoes with round toes.

Hairstyles and hats

Bobbed or short hair, trend-set by dancer and actress Irene Castle, spread rapidly. False buns, curls, wigs, and postiches were frequently incorporated into hair. Broad hats with face-shadowing brim and large hats with wide brims were the height of fashion early in the decade, gradually shrinking into smaller hats with flat brims.

Men's wear

In general, hair was worn short, mustaches were often curled, and styles were unchanged from the previous decade.

Coats, trousers, and waistcoats

Three-piece suits consisting of trousers and a sack coat with a matching waistcoat were worn. As were matching coat and trousers with contrasting waistcoat or matching coat and waistcoat with contrasting trousers.

Coats

The lounge or sack coat continued to replace the frock coat for most semi-formal and informal occasions. The blazer cut lick a sack coat with brass buttons and patch pockets, was worn for sports, sailing, and other casual activities. The Norfolk jacket remained fashionable for shooting and rugged outdoor pursuits. The morning coat was still worn for formal day occasions. A dark tail coat, with trousers and a dark or light waistcoat was still the most formal evening dress. Knee-length topcoats and calf-length overcoats were worn during winter.

Trousers

Trousers were ankle length with cuffs and were creased front and back. Gaiters or spats filled the gap between shoes and shorter trousers.

Waistcoats

Waistcoats fastened lower on the chest, and were collarless.

Shirts and neckties

Collars of formal dress shirts were turned over, very tall and stiffened, and with rounded corners. The average necktie was narrow four-in-hand. White bow ties were worn with evening wear but ascot ties were worn with formal day dress.

Accessories

Panama hats were worn for travel and flat straw boaters were more acceptable than previously. Silk top hats were a requirement for upper class formal wear, stiff bowler hats or soft felt homburgs were worn with sack or lounge suits.

Children's wear

They evolved in two different directions, formal dress and day-to-day. Boys wore suits with trousers that extended to the knee, the lengths of skirts for girls were cut shorter because of material rationing, military influences in apparel for little boys was typical, and boys even wear shorts during winter.

CLUE: She has a daughter

That's all, thanks for reading and hope you enjoyed!
Love, Hannah...<3

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